RUF CTR-1 Yellowbird

Description

What do you get from this revised Mod ?
– revised power torque curve
– with 70 points generated power.LUT made within my torque Curve Creator tool
– UI numbers recalculated from car data, not just written down
– Ver.10 Street Tyre model based on Dunlop SP Sport D40 with more realistic grip
– Corrected physics on suspensions to match Stephan Roser’s onboard behaviors
– Corrected sounds volume
– 5 Nordschleife setups that you can copy everywhere. depending on how you prefer you car to turn

Based on what Specs ?
There is no many different specs values written upon the internet. However, I managed to take a real transcript of an OEM Ruf torque dyno from which I used in my personal tool to create the power.lut curve you’re seeing in this mod.
– UI power value from torque curve, output 457 bhp (463hp | 469ps) at around 5900rpm
– Adjusted torque to output the “right” amount of horsepower at the “right” rev
(hard to mimic the perfect 56,4mkg at 5100rpm). The same issue occured even in GT7 tuning

The Nürburgring Lap
Stefan Roser, a RUF test driver, was chosen to demonstrate the full potential of the Yellowbird. The Nürburgring, often referred to as “The Green Hell,” is one of the most challenging and demanding racetracks in the world. Its 154 turns and 12.9-mile length require not only a powerful car but also immense skill and precision from the driver... [My modding target was to experience this]

How to drive the car ?
The architecture of a Porsche is designed by putting the engine behind the rear axle of the car, driving the rear wheels (that’s called RR). In that in mind, at standing still state, the weight distribution is about 40% front 70% rear. But does it matter if not driving it ?
When you are applying the brake, the force of deceleration causes a weight transfer that shift everything more or less at 50/50 so this is your time you have to place the car where you want (or make it turn)
As per many racing cars, the car’s behavior is really “setup depending” as for every cars, but every small details could be felt when driving the RUF.
What is cool about it specially is : there is no “right” setup for the RUF and tweaking it’s alignment (only) here and there WILL CHANGE the way you WANT to DRIVE it

The CTR demands forces in order to react:
– With Toe in (neg. TOE values ingame “car status” panel) both front and rear end, you will end with a natural feel of responsiveness on the streering wheel inputs (pointy), pointing at everywhere you want but don’t forget that most of the car’s mass is placed behind you like a backpack so there will be direct consequences.
– With Toe out (pos. values) on both ends, the car will feel less responsive to initial inputs, making the turn delayed but it will likely be more stable in corners and “easier” to correct during an oversteer that will inevitably happen but also be necessary to successfully make most of the corners. (don’t be surprised if the car doesn’t line up with the road in straight lines and want’s to kill you because this setup is for cornering)
– With Toe in at front & Toe out at rear, you get the responsiveness at steering inputs, the rear end will want to come first and you have few time and margin to correct the right amont of slide necessary to exit the corner alive (my guess is that this is the way Stefan Roser set the car up for his onboard and you’ll get the setting values on the store page pictures)
– With Toe out at front & toe in at rear… good luck for predicting the car’s whim and protect yourself to end in the barrier XD
(note that you can accentuate or completely erase every driving feelings and tips written above if you play with camber settings)

References:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSMCfPASImQ
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/977515-ruf-btr-ctr-dyno.html
http://weaky.free.fr/fiches/de/ruf/CTR_87.htm
https://bhauction.com/en/result/tokyo-auction/lots/1989-ruf-ctr-carrera-conversion